How much is the height of one floor? Standards for apartment buildings and individual houses. What is the height of one floor in a multi-storey building? Height of 1st floor 2
Height five storey building?
Let's estimate - the basement is half a meter, plus an overlap of 220 mm, there are 6 of them, a floor in the light, let's say 2.7 meters, plus 2.5 of those floors or an attic if the roof is pitched. Approximately 0.5 + 1.32 + 13.5 + 2.5 m = 17.82 m. As already mentioned above, the projects are different, so the height is different. In general, the question is on the verge of fantasy.
If we are talking about a standard five-story building, then after making simple calculations, we can understand that a five-story building can be about 20 meters high. This is if we take the height of one floor to be about three meters.
On average, the height of a five-story building ranges from 14 to 25 meters. Such a spread is almost twofold associated with different heights of floors, basement or semi-basement, what kind of roof is in the house, gaps between floors, and so on. These values and parameters for different developers can be very different.
Relatively high five-story buildings are now being built in townhouses. And the height of the house sometimes reaches 22-28 meters (including the roof).
In the Soviet Union, the overlap between floors was within half a meter, and the height of the ceilings in ordinary five-story buildings was in the area of 2.5 meters. That is, the height of such Soviet houses is about 15 meters.
If the floor slabs are equal to three meters, then the height of the five-story building will be fifteen meters in height, and if the height of the slabs is 2.700, then consider the example itself above, and if the five-story building is also with an attic, then the attic height is 2-3 meters.
The height of a 5-storey building, the usual Khrushchev is 15 meters, such houses were built during the Soviet era.
5 floors of 2.5 meters each, it will be 12.5 meters, plus a basement of 2.5 meters for a total of 15 meters, the height of the house.
But not all five-storey houses have such a height, now they are building houses higher, now there are no Gostov for the construction of five-storey houses.
So let's try to figure it out. To do this, you must first remember to take into account the foundation and the roof itself. If the foundation is allowable one and a half meters and plus the roof for another five meters, this will already be 6.5 meters to the maximum. Further, we consider the approximate height of each floor by three meters, we get a total of 15.
In toga we add and get 21.5 - this is the desired height.
Approximately about one and a half meters to the floor of the first floor from the surface of the earth, well, let the meter + the height of each of the floors - 3.0 - 3.3 meters X for 5 floors = about 16 meters. The roof is about five meters. In total, five floors, with a foundation and a roof, will be about 22-25 meters.
I have just counted the height of a 10-storey building. It turned out about 40-50 meters, which means that the height of the five-story building will be 2 times less - on average 25 meters. I made this calculation taking into account the height of the ceilings in the apartments, equal to 3 meters, plus you need to calculate the height of the basement floor and the space that the attic occupies (this is another floor). I think that the height of the 5-storey building will be even slightly less - about 22 meters.
It is not possible to say exactly the height of a five-story building, since it is different. The developers did not use exactly the standard height of the floors, so they got different heights. There are floors with 3 meters in height, there are floors with 2 meters, as well as different heights at which the house is located. So the height will be approximately 12 to 18 meters.
If we take as a sample, a standard five-story house built during the construction of the USSR, the ceilings of which will be according to its original design without a hint of a base, then its height will be approximately fifteen meters.
It depends on the project. There is different types panels (if the house is panel), respectively, and the height of the floor of the house can vary from 2 to 3 meters. As a rule, when talking about panel house floor height 2.5 meters. In brick it can be slightly higher, but within 3 meters. More high floors were in old houses 3-3.5 meters ( Stalinist houses, 50-60 years). Now they are trying not to make more than 2.8-3 meters in height.
The height of a floor is equal to the distance from the floor of a particular floor to the floor of the higher floor. 2.8 or 3.0 m floor height of a typical residential building. In one house, the height of the floors can be different, for example, if there is a store or a public institution on the ground floor.
If we take some modern multi-storey buildings in Moscow, then the height of the first floor is 4.2 m, the height of ordinary ones is 3.2 m, the thickness of the floors is 220 mm.
Everything will depend on the project of this or that structure. If you take the stalinka, then there are ceilings of at least three meters, and in Khrushchev at least 230cm. A more or less standard height is still 2.5 m. Yes, and to be precise, you need to add the thickness of the floor, because the question asks for the height of the entire floor. So it turns out that at least you have to add another 10 cm.
You decided to build wooden house- wonderful! After choosing a project, it is time to choose a construction company wooden house... At this stage, you will have to delve into and deal with many nuances. Otherwise, you risk to end up with a completely different house that you wanted, or spend a lot large amount than planned.
With a lot of competition, many construction companies go to various tricks to attract customers with a low construction cost. But being guided only by the price, not having figured out what you get for it, you often have to remember the proverb that “a miser pays twice”.
In this article, we have sorted out a few main points that you need to pay attention to when choosing a contractor.
House area (cost per 1 m²)
When choosing a project, many are guided by total area houses and calculate on this basis the cost of 1 square meter building a house. But the area of the house can be "calculated" in different ways.
We calculate the net area of all rooms minus the walls. It is this area that will be at the disposal of the Customer after the final finishing.
Many Contractors calculate the area by axial dimensions (some manage to calculate in general by the external dimensions of the house).
* At the notional cost of the project 2,000,000 rubles
Height of floors
Another a lot important point in a house - this is the height of the floors or, in simpler terms, the height of the ceilings. Everyone knows that with high ceilings it is spacious and comfortable, and with a height of, for example, 2.2 m, you feel like in a bath.
For a wooden house, it is necessary to distinguish between 2 floor heights. The first is the height of the floor before the house shrinks. It is equal to the distance between the floor beams immediately after assembling the house “under the roof”. The second height after shrinkage (clean) is equal to the distance from the floor to the ceiling after shrinking and finishing the house.
It is on the difference of these two heights that dishonest contractors are cunning.
1st floor + attic
Provided the height of the box is 3m and the thickness of the floor beams is 200mm, we get the height of the 1st floor before shrinkage - 2.7m. And taking into account the finish (we subtract 50mm on the floor and ceiling) and shrinkage, we get about 2.55-2.6m
The height of the 2nd floor is limited by the transom (required roof element). Depending on the height of the gables, this height can be 2.5m, 3m, and in some projects even higher.
By the way, some construction companies even here manage to go for a trick, indicating the area of the attic equal to the area of the 1st floor. In fact, the used area of the attic is less and is limited by the rafter racks.
If you are promised a ground floor height of 2.7 m in cleanliness with a box height of 3 m, then this is fantastic. Or the contractor saves on load-bearing beams(not 200, but 150mm), reducing the strength of the overlap.
1.5 floors + half attic
For this version of the house, you should pay attention to the height of the box, the height of the pediment and the thickness of the floor (the height of the beams).
The height of the 2nd floor in this version may no longer be limited by the crossbar, as in the previous one, and may be up to the ridge itself. With the dimensions indicated in the diagram, the height of the 2nd floor can be up to 3.6 m at the top point.
It is important to pay attention to the height of the side walls. With a box size of 4.5m, this height will be 1.4m before shrinkage and 1.3-1.35 when clean.
It should be noted that construction companies reduce construction costs due to the height of the box. With a box height of 4m, the height of the side walls on the 2nd floor will be less than a meter, and this creates discomfort when using the house.
For this type of house, it is necessary to clarify the height of the box and gables in order to independently calculate for yourself the height of the floors and the side wall of the 2nd floor.
2 full floors
For two-storey house everything is much simpler. With a box height of 6m, we get the height of the floors to shrinkage of 2.7m, and in the cleanliness of 2.55-2.6m.
For a 2-storey building, it is important to know only the height of the box, and the rest of the calculations will not be difficult.
To summarize, there are 4 important parameters that affect the height of the floors:
- Height of the box (log house),
- Pediment height,
- Floor thickness (beams),
- Wall shrinkage! (read more below).
Knowing the values of these parameters, you can easily calculate the height of the floors, and at the stage of signing the contract you can check your expectations and the decency of the contractor.
Earlier in the article, we mentioned wall shrinkage. Let's talk about it in a little more detail.
The shrinkage of the walls depends on many factors. The main ones are wall material and mezhventsovy insulation (which one is used). Many companies keep their statistics on the shrinkage of houses using various methods. The indications are quite different.
Based on our statistics, we give the following figures for the shrinkage of houses:
until 3%
For rounded logs and sawn timber of natural moisture
up to 2%
For profiled timber of natural moisture
When laying on jute insulation 10-12mm
up to 5%
For log cabins of manual felling of natural moisture
When laying on moss
After assembling the house under the roof, the actual height of the box may be greater than the design one (for example: according to the project 3m, in fact 3.1-3.15m). The amount of shrinkage should be calculated from the actual height after assembly.
Equipment
Initially, the client finds on the website or in advertising the cost of building a house that is profitable for himself. This is achieved by reducing the cross-sections of the supporting structures, the thickness of the insulation layer, simplifying the joints "to the point".
Despite the fact that all people are different, they are similar in their desire to ultimately have a safe and secure home. This is what managers use. They propose to improve the equipment (cross-sections of beams, rafters, floor height, etc.). Accordingly, the cost immediately rises, increasing 1.5-2 times from the initial one. In order not to fall for this bait, we will analyze the main parameters of the 1st stage of construction of a wooden house.
Foundation
1. Tape shallow foundation
The diagram shows the options for the cross-sections of the foundation offered by various contractors. By reducing the cross-section of the foundation, they reduce the cost. It is also possible that, with the same cross-section, a lower price is achieved due to the materials used in the production and the amount of work. Below we have given the main materials and work required for the installation of the foundation and our recommendations.
Concrete
It is advisable to take a concrete grade of at least M300 (B 22.5). We use only factory certified concrete with an attached passport.
Armature
Corrugated fittings are used at least 10mm in diameter (we use 12-14mm).
Waterproofing
We recommend waterproofing the sole and side surfaces of the tape at the stage of formwork installation. You can use special films, roofing material, waterproofing. We use roofing material RKP-350. When concrete is poured, waterproofing retains moisture in the mix, thereby improving the quality of the concrete when it hardens.
Formwork
For formwork, a board or plywood is used. The most important thing is that the finished formwork retains its shape and integrity during pouring. This is achieved by using studs, ties, jibs and other methods in the formwork structure.
Quarry sand
Used for cushion under the foundation to reduce heaving under the base of the foundation.
Work
The standard scope of work during the installation of the foundation should be as follows:
- Geodesy,
- Digging trenches
- Installation of formwork with waterproofing and ventilation ducts,
- Knitting of the reinforcing cage,
- Reception of concrete. If the access to the formwork is difficult, then a concrete pump is usually used to supply concrete to the formwork,
- Dismantling of formwork,
- Removal of the fertile soil layer inside the foundation.
- Delivery of all materials to the site with unloading.
2. Pile-tape (pile-grillage) foundation
The parameters for the tape (grillage) and the scope of work are identical with the parameters of the previous type of foundation. For the pile part, we recommend the following parameters:
- The diameter of the piles should be 200-300mm, depending on the width of the strip of the given foundation.
- The distance between the piles should not exceed 2-3m, depending on the material of the walls and the size of the future house.
- The pile depth is 1.6-2m below ground level.
3. Screw pile foundation
Today is gaining popularity screw foundation... Its advantages are relatively low price and installation time (up to 1 day).
- The pile diameter must be at least 108mm. For log houses and two-story heavy houses, we recommend using piles with a diameter of at least 133mm.
- The diameter of the blades is not less than 300mm.
- The wall thickness of the pile is at least 4mm, and the thickness of the blades is at least 5mm.
- After installation, the pile cavity must be filled. We recommend a mortar of sand concrete grade M300.
Outside, the pile is processed with paints and varnishes. At least two layers (primer and enamel) or two-component anti-corrosion enamel. It is possible to use polymer coatings for piles, but this leads to a serious rise in the cost of the structure.
A very important point is the pile screwing technology. During installation, a pit is first dug into which the pile is installed. This pit should be no more than 30-40cm deep. We recommend using special pile twisting equipment wherever possible. When twisting by hand, the rotation of the pile shaft should be uniform without jerking.
The number of piles is calculated based on the project, but in any case, the distance between the piles should not exceed 2.5m, and for light houses and baths, not more than 3m.
If, when signing the contract, the attached documents do not contain enough in the description of any type of work from the above, then be sure that when required to perform it, you will have to pay extra.
Walls
Another mechanism for misleading the customer. Typically, the sites presented projects with a drawing of the final version "turnkey". This is a standard solution so that a person can see and understand what kind of house will turn out in the end. On many projects, some of the internal walls are designed in frame version to reduce the cost and in view of the inexpediency of making them capital. These frame partitions are installed after the house has shrunk at the finishing stage.
Before concluding a contract, it is very important to clarify and know which walls are capital and are included in the price at the initial stage.
The trouble is that some contractors are so keen on reducing the cost of the project that they leave only the outer walls permanent. This can be fraught, especially for larger homes. With such a layout, deformation of the walls is possible when the house shrinks. The walls will subsequently stagger and there is even a danger of the structure collapsing.
We must not forget about the rest of the materials used in the assembly of the walls. The main ones are the dowel and the mezhventsovy insulation. Nagel, in other words, dowels are used to fasten the rims of the box to each other vertically. They can be round, square.
Some companies use regular construction nails or rebar for quick assembly. It is not right. In the future, gaps between the crowns may appear, because the nails will prevent the walls from shrinking evenly.
Mezhventsovy insulation is quite different. Moss, tow, jute, artificial materials are used, depending on the material of the walls. It is important that the contractor uses the appropriate insulation of the required thickness so that it does not subsequently blow from all the cracks.
We use 100% jute insulation 10-12mm, so that after shrinkage, due to the thickness of the layer, all the junctions between the crowns of the walls of the house are filled.
Before signing the contract, you must know which walls made of logs or beams will be mounted at the first stage "for shrinkage" and what consumables the contractor will use.
Roof
The most important thing in a roof is the supporting structure (rafter system) and the correct choice of fastening. If you save on this, then the roof can deform or simply collapse under the influence of a snow load. For houses, we recommend using edged sawn timber with a section of 50x200mm.
In a rafter structure, the step of the rafters is very important. It should be 600-700mm (except for the installation of roof windows).
You also need to understand the "roofing pie" itself. For clarity, we have shown in the figure roof options for a temporary roof and "turnkey".
It is necessary to immediately clarify from what material, what section and what the supporting structure of the roof will be, so that you do not have to completely redo it, overpaying a lot of money.
Work
Everyone has construction companies the price of a house "under the roof" includes a different list of works. We have presented the minimum list of works and services required for the production of the first stage of construction.
- Delivery of the house kit by trucks.
- Unloading materials by crane or manually.
- Installation of scaffolding.
- Assembling the walls on the dowel.
- Inset of floor beams.
- Installation of a roof under roofing felt or other coating.
- Organization of workers' accommodation.
- Power supply of the object.
If any of these points is missing or not specified, then you will most likely be asked to pay extra in the course of work.
Bottom line: At the stage of choosing a project and a contractor, do not rush to sign a contract due to very favorable price... Calmly, with a "cold mind" familiarize yourself with the complete set. If the contractor withholds any of the above information from you or does not give a clear answer, then there is a reason to think about it. Perhaps he made the project cheaper at the expense of your safety. As a result, you will have to do it yourself and additional costs correct those miscalculations that you can notice in time. Don't forget: "Free cheese only in a mousetrap."