* To calculate the cost of services for waterproofing the foundation of a building, you need to know such key parameters as: the depth of the foundation, as well as its perimeter. With the help of this data, the square of the foundation walls is calculated, and the cost of their waterproofing is calculated, taking into account the work you need. Excavation It is also easy to calculate if for the third indicator - the width of the trench - take a constant of 1 meter (the minimum width of the trench for this type of work).

A set of measures to protect underground premises from moisture from the waterproofing of the foundation and wall drainage is used only if an internal fine finishing... Otherwise, you can do with one wall drainage of the foundation (if the object is under construction and the foundation pit has not yet been filled up) or ring drainage of the foundation(if the object has already been built, and a blind area has been made around it).

In the complex of measures to protect underground premises from dampness, foundation waterproofing performs two main functions:

• protection of interior decoration;
• protection of concrete structures of the foundation from penetration into them and the negative impact of groundwater.

Alone, without wall drainage, foundation waterproofing will not be able to cope with these tasks - well, only if within a very short period of time (no more than a year). And certainly without wall drainage of the foundation, it will not cope with the flooding of an underground room. This is due to the fact that near-wall drainage of the foundation removes the most powerful capillary pressure of underground water on the basement or basement (especially during periods of flood or heavy lingering rains).

Foundation waterproofing is a system that, according to SNiPs, consists of:

These are the basic principles of the foundation waterproofing system. If you decide to start the installation of foundation waterproofing on your own, then you will definitely encounter a huge number of nuances associated with the arrangement of various units, such as: pairing the horizontal waterproofing of the foundation with the vertical one, arranging the side between the slab and the foundation wall, arranging the upper edge of the waterproofing of the foundation, connecting the geomembrane with wall drainage, etc. Therefore, entrust it to professionals - our practical experience consists of about a hundred installed foundation waterproofing systems, and our favorable prices will pleasantly surprise you. Call !!!

External waterproofing and drainage around the house with the subsequent installation of a stormwater system - these are fundamental works both in new construction and in the restoration and reconstruction of old houses. Ignoring the work on external waterproofing and drainage with the subsequent drainage of storm water from the walls of the foundation of a building under construction or reconstruction will make you bitterly regret it later.

It is often possible to observe on the walls of both new and old houses falling off plaster along the lower edge at a low height from the ground level. Specialists in the field of waterproofing with their sketched eyes will immediately say that such houses have absolutely no drainage and stormwater systems to drain water from the foundation of the building. Meanwhile, this is a big mistake of the designers. You can also understand when such problems occur with old houses, but when it is being built new house with an underground garage or restoration or reconstruction of any historical object is being carried out, and in the project of these structures there are absolutely no works on drainage and drainage of storm water, the question immediately arises, who designed all this for you?

The photographs show as an example an object with a fresh renovation, which is less than three months old.

The typical mistakes of this facility are the lack of a drainage system and the absence of storm water inlets under the downpipes. As you can see, the result is obvious. Money spent, spent, and the walls suffer from Why? Either someone decided to save money, or the repair was not designed by specialists.

External waterproofing and drainage device around newly built or repaired at home should come first in the design of future work. If you do not want to drown in water, then focus on these works during the design, as well as at the stage of execution. construction works zero cycle. If you do not divert groundwater and rainwater away from the walls of the foundation, then later in your basement water will become a constant unwelcome guest. In summer, you will observe dampness in the basement, and in spring and autumn, water will fill the basement room. The walls of your home will have an unsightly appearance with peeling plaster and traces of salt. At the level of the first floor in the premises of the house, approximately the same picture will be observed, also with the addition of mold. Living in such premises will be, to put it mildly, not comfortable.

Drainage around the house

work on the device drainage system around at home, then you must understand in advance where the drainage water will be diverted. The basic principle drainage around the house - this is to divert water away from the walls of the foundation. It is good if the natural slope of the terrain of your site helps you with this. In many cases, there are no such biases, and you have to adapt to what is. You have to drain water into drainage ditches, storm systems, etc. Drainage system around the house This involves excavating around the perimeter of your home's foundation with a trench as deep as your foundation to the bottom slab. During drainage system devices it is important to correctly observe the technology of work execution and the use of appropriate materials. Correctly performed drainage works significantly relieve the foundation and its walls from the penetration of surface water.

External waterproofing of the house foundation

If you decide to carry out repair work on the arrangement of the drainage system around the house , then this operation logically pulls the next one - external waterproofing of the house foundation ... Earthworks around the perimeter of the foundation expose its walls and, accordingly, make it possible to perform vertical waterproofing of walls the foundation of the house. Such an opportunity does not happen often, and accordingly, not taking advantage of it will be a real crime in relation to oneself.

Works on waterproofing the walls of the foundation of the house are mainly vertical waterproofing ... Task vertical waterproofing - protect the outer surface of the wall from aggressive surface rain and melt water affecting its underground part. Remember vertical waterproofing of walls outside always more reliable than vertical waterproofing of walls from the inside. External vertical waterproofing - this is the protection of the walls of the foundation from water penetrating into the walls from top to bottom. In summer and autumn, it can be atmospheric precipitation flowing down the drainpipes, and in spring it is melting snow.

External vertical waterproofing of walls foundations of the house are carried out with the use of coating waterproofing materials, as well as waterproofing materials of penetrating action. After finishing external vertical waterproofing to protect the underground part of the foundation walls, they begin to lay and install the drainage system around the foundation of the house.

Storm water inlets.

The most common widespread mistake throughout the Russian Federation is ignoring storm water inlets and storm drains. Meanwhile, drainpipes descending from the roofs of houses are the main provocateurs of wetting the walls of the foundation of the house, as well as its basement. Whether out of knowledge, or out of greed, but in 99% of cases during new construction, during reconstruction or restoration of houses, storm water inlets are not designed and installed. This is a gross mistake.

Here's the result! Here, as they say, the miser pays twice. The fresh renovation did not last even three months.

And they had to install storm water inlets with drainage of rainwater into storm wells.

How is it correct?

There must be a storm water inlet under each downpipe. It will save your walls and foundation of the house from getting wet and the penetration of storm water into the basement.

Storm water inlets and storm drains are interconnected by a single storm system and drain surface water into storm wells, which it is advisable to do away from the walls and foundation of the house.

Consultation with a specialist.

If you decide to build a new house or carry out repairs and reconstruction of an old object, if you have questions and do not have enough knowledge on the installation of external waterproofing with drainage around the house, then contact us. Our many years of experience in the field of rescue from dampness will help you to correctly design and carry out subsequent work for the types of work listed in this section. Our professional knowledge will help you avoid future mistakes, disappointments, and most importantly, high costs for their subsequent correction. Our consultations are paid, but they are disproportionately less than your possible subsequent costs for correcting mistakes. We advise both on site visits and on-line. The cost of our consultations depends on this.

Membrane PLANTER geo as part of a foundation waterproofing protection system is capable of:

• Provide effective drainage. Up to 5 liters of water with square meter... It is more effective than sand and gravel! Reducing water pressure helps to minimize the risk of leakage;
• Reduce the cost of work due to the replacement of sand with backfill soil;
• Provide reliable protection of waterproofing from mechanical damage;
• Protect waterproofing from root germination;
• Contribute to protection from the chemical effects of an aggressive environment;
• Extend the life of the system as a whole by organizing the most comfortable conditions for a waterproofing layer.

PLANTER waterproofing protection system and drainage:

At a high level groundwater even the most first-class waterproofing can quickly get out of the troy due to the constant and high pressure of the fluid accumulated at the foundation. In this case PLANTER – the best solution not only for protection, but also for efficient drainage of water.

Backfill waterproofing

Groundwater disposal or drainage is one of the most important tasks facing many basement projects under construction in an area of ​​high groundwater. Second, not less important task- how to protect waterproofing from mechanical damage during backfilling. After all, these works are the most common reason for the violation of the waterproofing layer, since various hard and sharp objects can be found in this soil.

Builders and architects of the last century solved these and many other problems in complex and often labor-intensive ways. For example, replacing the backfill soil with sand or using crushed stone in combination with brickwork, which acted as a protection for the waterproofing layer. Some, less advanced and economical engineers, did without everything, but later the problem could be solved only in a radical way - digging up the foundation and starting work from scratch.

It was like that before. New technologies offer completely available material, which is able to solve the above problems + give the system a number of positive properties that will help increase its service life. The title of this material is - PLANTER geo.

Drainage PLANTER geo

PLANTER geo- profiled HDPE membrane with thermally bonded geotextile. Simply put, it is an extremely durable yet flexible material with projections (spikes) across the entire area. Geotextiles are attached to the spikes in a special way, which allows you to filter the water.

How does it work, you ask? The system is incredibly simple. Consider the most popular option without insulation:

Waterproofing is applied to the foundation. A protective membrane is attached to it PLANTER geo, geotextile to the ground. Space is created between the geotextile and the base of the membrane thanks to the spikes. A special drainage pipe is installed at the base of the foundation, which "takes" water from PLANTER geo and directs it to special places for subsequent withdrawal. More detailed instructions, which will answer many questions, is presented in the next tab "installation".

Closely located groundwater is the underlying cause of increased humidity in the house and the imminent failure of the foundation. In order to eliminate these troubles, it is necessary to perform waterproofing and drainage work when laying the foundation. If this list of works was not done in a timely manner, you can carry them out after the construction of the house. The drainage and drainage device requires some physical effort, but you can do it yourself, without the involvement of specialists.

Drainage types

The way the drain is done depends on the design of the house. If the building has a basement or basement, drainage is performed wall-to-wall and placed close to the foundation. In the absence of these premises, perform ring drain... Its peculiarity is its location at some distance from the walls of the building, depending on the type of soil and the depth of groundwater, it can be up to 4 meters.

Step one - cleaning and waterproofing the foundation

Foundation waterproofing works - required condition the efficiency of the drainage system. When waterproofing the foundation, it is necessary to bare - dig a trench from the outside to a depth of its base. The width of the trench should ensure the convenience of work, usually it is 0.8-1 m. The surface of the foundation is cleaned by removing the old waterproofing, soil residues, and other contaminants. If necessary, you can cover it with an antiseptic. Dry the foundation after cleaning. Drying the foundation naturally can take several days or even weeks, so it is advisable to use a heat gun or a hair dryer.

Waterproofing can be done in different ways:

• pasting - using roll materials, for example, roofing material;
• coating - using bituminous mastic;
• penetrating - with the help of special means based on cement with chemical additives.

For a private house without a basement, glued waterproofing glued to bituminous mastic is usually used, and the subsequent gravel backfill of the trench. In addition to the goal set - waterproofing the foundation - this method improves its thermal insulation and extends its service life. The advantages of the method include the fact that it does not shrink, and allows immediately after backfilling the trench with gravel to build a blind area - an additional measure of protection against soil erosion next to the foundation.

Drainage system

The ring-type drainage system used in private buildings is carried out at a distance of about 1 meter from the foundation walls. The drainage device is started, as in the waterproofing stage, with digging a trench around the perimeter of the building. The depth of the ditch for drainage should ensure that the pipe is laid below the level of the base of the foundation, its width depends on the diameter of the pipe and the thickness of the backfill layer, and is usually 0.5 m. You also need to create a slope towards the wells of at least 1 cm for each meter of pipe length.

At the same time, pits are being dug under inspection wells - they are usually installed in the corners of the house, they are needed to audit and inspect the drainage system. In the lowest place, a pit is dug under a collector well, where all the drains from the drainage system will be collected.

The bottom of the trench and foundation pits is leveled and covered with a 15-25 cm layer of river sand, rammed, after spilling it with water. The bottom is lined with geotextiles - a special fabric that allows water to pass through and protects the drainage from clogging with soil. The width of the fabric should be sufficient to wrap the pipes and backfill completely and provide an overlap. The edges of the canvas are temporarily fixed to the walls of the moat. Crushed stone with a fraction of 50 mm is poured onto the fabric, the thickness of the backfill is up to 20 cm.

Perforated pipes are prepared. You can use ordinary ones for external sewerage, having previously drilled them at a distance of 6-8 cm with a drill, drill diameter 2-6 mm. The pipes are laid in a prepared trench, connected and covered with crushed stone with a layer thickness of 10 cm, and then covered with free edges of geotextile. With a complex configuration of the foundation, connecting elements for sewer pipes are used.

The pipes are connected to manholes and to the collector. A pit for a collector device is prepared similarly to a trench, and a perforated tank of a suitable size is used as a container. It is better to place the collector at a distance of at least 5 meters from the walls of the house. In order to avoid swelling of the soil, the walls of the pit are strengthened and a sand cushion is arranged. The top of the collector is placed at the level of the soil and covered with a lid; the depth of the collector should exclude massive ingress of groundwater into it. From the collector, water is drained outside the site with non-perforated pipes into gutters or natural reservoirs. After the installation of the system, the trench and foundation pit are covered with earth.

To protect the waterproofing of the foundation of the house from mechanical stress, from the movement of groundwater, alkaline soil environment, sprouting tree roots, it is necessary to do it.

To protect underground part buildings, it is necessary to make reliable waterproofing of the foundation with liquid rubber. It is necessary to provide for drainage of the house, as well as protection and insulation of waterproofing, as well as a warm blind area.

Only such an integrated approach will protect the house from water (both ground water, capillary water and upper water) and from the chemical effects of harmful substances dissolved in water and from frost heaving.

Therefore, if the house is built correctly, then the drainage of the house should be taken care of during the construction phase. And then, as a rule, foundation drainage is reduced to a wall drainage device.

In this case, waterproofing protection and wall drainage are carried out with special profiled foundation films. Technoprok has a wide selection of such protective drainage membranes under the TECHNOPROK GEO trademark, which are specially manufactured for Technoprok LLC in Germany at the Eurosystem plant. Wall drainage is schematically shown in the figure.

But what if the house was built, wall drainage was not performed, a couple of years passed and it became clear that drainage of the house was needed?

You can, of course, dig out the foundation around the perimeter to the full depth, clean the waterproofing, lay a professional membrane on it, lay a drainage pipe along the bottom along the walls, install drainage wells etc. In a word, do everything that is supposed to be done with the foundation drainage, but which was forgotten at the construction stage.

And when the owner of the house calculates how much it will cost him (remodeling is always more expensive than doing from scratch), plus a spoiled landscape, ruined flowers and shrubs near the house, and just - dirt and a construction site where you want comfort and peace , then…

In general, not every owner decides to make wall drainage when the house on the garden plot is already inhabited. And the solution to this problem can be trench drainage at home.

Drainage device in the garden

In this case, the drainage of the house is not located "close to" the walls of the foundation, but at a distance of several meters. This is especially good if, during the construction of the house, not only did they forget to make wall drainage, but also the backfill soil is clay.

Recall that when installing drainage, materials should be used as soil that are easily conductive and do not retain water. These are sand, pebbles, gravel. But, if instead of such materials, the wall space is covered with clay soil (well, for example, the house is built on a clay area and what was at hand was covered with that), then:

• on the one hand, it is a bad soil, because retains moisture and it is such soil that is especially susceptible to frost heaving.
• but, on the other hand, after a couple of years, such soil will settle and form what is called a "clay castle" - an excellent "natural" protection of the foundation from water.

But the "clay castle" needs to be helped, if possible, by cutting off water from it at the site. This is done by means of a trench drainage devices in the garden.

Drainage device and waterproofing on the site

A drainage device on the site will allow organizing a drainage system and protection of underground waterproofing in places with a high level of groundwater. This can be not only a garden plot, but also an area adjacent, for example, to underground garages and structures.

So, along the perimeter of the house, at a distance of 1-2 meters from the blind area, we dig a trench. We do not touch the blind area, and therefore do not touch the "caked" soil around the house, which ideally turned into a "clay castle".

True, there is a slippery moment. The fact is that the formation of a "clay castle" takes several years. And all this time the soil is settling. In other words, if the backfill soil is clayey, then the blind area will also sag and crack over time and will need to be repaired. But - this is already another task and does not apply to the drainage of the house or the device of drainage of the site, by laying a trench.

The depth of the trench should be below the level of the base of the foundation by 0.5 ... 0.7 m. This will allow you to "collect" water not only around the house, but also from under the house. Even if the house is built on a monolithic slab. Already, as a rule, a sandy pillow under skinny concrete monolithic slab do everything. The soil does not freeze directly under the house, because the building "warms" the soil.

it important point that you can collect water from under the house. Even if the soil under the house does not swell, the excess moisture can lead to erosion of the soil under the building, and if there is a lot of water, then mechanically affect the underground part of the house. For example, in the fall, during the rainy season, or in the spring, when the snow melts. During this period, it is especially important not to admit water to the foundation.

The trench should be dug so as to provide a slope of 1 degree per 1 linear meter. It is better to orient the slope in the direction of the natural slope on the site. The easiest way is to observe in which direction the water flows after the rain. It would be unwise to compete with nature by orienting water flows in the opposite direction.

You can check the slope using a laser level by placing the poles along the length of all 4 trenches. Then pour coarse sand over these landmarks to achieve the desired slope.

Geotextile for the device of drainage in the garden

Then geotextiles are spread along the leveled slope. The canvas should lie not only on the bottom of the trench, but it should be enough for the walls as well. Of course, if the trench is 2m deep, then geotextiles along the walls are not for the entire depth. Geotextiles are needed then to overlap the pipe. Therefore, the tongues of the geotextile fabric should rise on the sides to a height equal to 1.5 times the width of the base of the trench.

In Technoprok you can also purchase for site drainage devices geotextile.

It is better to use relatively loose geotextiles for these purposes, because the one that is used in the construction of roads is poorly permeable to moisture. The main "popular" brand of geotextiles offered by Technoprok is "density 100". This non-woven fabric is excellent for both on-site drainage and for reinforcing liquid rubber for waterproofing.

To make it better, let's say that geotextiles with a density of 200 are used for the construction of sidewalks, in the construction of roads with heavy traffic, incl. cargo, geotextiles with a density of 350 are needed, for airport runways, geotextiles with a density of 400 are used, and for the construction of tank courses and foundations of hydroelectric power plants, geotextiles with a density of 500 and higher are needed.

Drainage of the house and garden area, arrangement of the trench

On top of the geotextile, washed gravel is poured along the bottom of the trench, but so as to maintain the slope.

Then, in the middle of the gravel strip, a drainage pipe is laid, which is then backfilled with gravel.

Instead of gravel, you can use other bulk material that allows water to pass through well, for example, small stones, crushed stone, even broken brick or concrete (but who wants this for their home?) Or just coarse sand. Earlier, when in Soviet times it was not good enough with building materials, especially for private housing construction, and people did drainage at home according to the principle that they managed to snatch off or, what is at hand, they used, for example, bundles of twigs, branches.

Thus, the drain pipe in the trench is surrounded by gravel on all sides. The thickness of gravel under the pipe and above the pipe should be 50 ... 100 mm. The total height of the gravel backfill, inside which the pipe runs, is approximately 500mm.

After that, the free edges of the geotextile, with an overlap, are covered with gravel from above. And on top we fill the trench with sand, i.e. also a material that conducts water well.

It - general principle trenching for drainage. Such trenches will provide both, if wall drainage was not made in due time, and drainage garden plot ... Also read on this topic on the technoprok website about how to make a drainage device around the house.

Technoprok materials for waterproofing and drainage at home

If you want to create reliable protection of the foundation waterproofing with your own hands, make high-quality wall drainage or perform site drainage, then in Technoprok you can not only buy the necessary materials, but also get professional recommendations.

Technoprok LLC is a modern Construction Materials European quality at a low price to make waterproofing and correct.