Payment of taxes / 13.09.2020

Build an annex to a wooden house. Extension to a wooden house: modern projects. Requirements for premises

One of the advantages of living in the private sector is the possibility of self-construction according to your own project - you can build a house of any size (naturally, within the available area land plot) and then, if necessary, increase it in size. If the strength of the foundation allows, the house can be increased in height or, conversely, increased in length or width - so to speak, make an extension to it, which will be discussed in this article. Together with the site, we will deal with the materials and technologies that allow us to independently solve the question of how to make an extension to the house? And we will start by studying the materials, where we will figure out which materials and under what circumstances are best used.

How to make an extension to a house with your own hands photo

How to make an extension to a house: choice of materials

In general, there is one iron rule that it is better not to break. It sounds as follows - from what the house is built, from which you need to make an extension to it. At least this was the case before, when the choice of building materials and technologies was limited to bricks, other blocks and clay. Today, during the advanced technological progress, things are a little different - there are technologies that make it possible to break this rule, moreover, roughly. Now you can easily attach a brick building to a wooden house, revet it with the same and get a solid-looking structure. In general, it is not at all necessary to be tied to an old building in terms of material.

Now in more detail about the most popular materials, through which you can quite simply solve the question of how to make an extension to the house with your own hands?

Blocks of various formats and bricks. There is no point in dividing them into separate subgroups, since the technology of their use is, in general, the same type - a foundation is being erected on which the walls of the extension are laid out block by block, brick by brick. The only thing that distinguishes this whole thing is the properties and qualities of materials - this is important, and it is imperative to take them into account when choosing materials. Let's start with the classics -. Strong, durable, material - taking into account it is very expensive. Moreover, the brick is a rather cold material, which will have to be additionally insulated, and this is a plus to the cost of the extension. In addition, this material requires a solid foundation. In this respect, it looks much more attractive - its price is a couple of times lower, the blocks are larger and the material itself is much warmer. Where the brick will need to be laid out in three rows, it is enough to lay the cinder block in two rows. Aerated concrete looks even more attractive - it is light, and the question of how to make an extension to the house correctly can be solved even on a shallow (0.5 meter) foundation. Moreover, it is a very warm and porous material, which, with a thickness of 200 mm, is able to effectively retain heat in rooms. After plastering, it acquires a very decent strength, which makes the structure reliable. In principle, you can consider other block materials - for example, shell rock is often used, it has shown itself well in terms of keeping heat in rooms (popularly called sawdust concrete).
How to make an extension to a house photo
... Today it is the most the best option not only for an extension, but also for the construction of private houses in general - the essence of this technology lies in the manufacture of a wooden and metal frame, followed by sheathing with such sheet material as. Insulation is laid inside the frame, which makes the structure very warm. By by and large, now it is the cheapest technology, which, among other things, can boast of simplicity and a very fast pace of construction. The only thing that the frame extension cannot boast of is its durability. Although who knows - with proper adherence to technology and proper care, it can stand for about a century. We will talk a little further about how to make a frame extension to a house.

In addition to the options described above, you can consider the technology of building an extension using the method of monolithic concreting. Moreover, the real heavy concrete for these purposes it is not necessary to use it at all - the so-called cinder concrete may be the best option in such a case. Slag-cast houses are very warm in winter and cool in summer - they are durable and can serve for a very long time.

How to make the foundation of an extension to a house correctly: features

The main problem of making the foundation of the extension is to connect the new and old foundation. If it is done incorrectly or not done at all, then no matter how you spliced the walls of two separate buildings, a crack will still appear at the place of their joining. Moreover, it is through, with all the ensuing consequences - heat leakage, the formation of condensation and, as a result, the appearance of fungus and mold in this place. In general, there is little pleasant. That's why Special attention it is necessary to pay attention to the following points.

In principle, these three nuances will be quite enough in order to reliably connect two foundations together. Alternatively, if, of course, you can get to the bottom of the base of the existing house, the extensions can be slightly poured under it.

How to make an extension to a brick house: the nuances of joining walls

Docking a frame structure to a brick or any other block house is not a problem at all - a vertical beam of a wooden frame or a profile of a metal frame of a structure is simply attached to the wall of the building with anchors and that's it! There are practically no nuances here - except that the observance of the vertical level of this bar and the sealing of the junction. The last operation is carried out either using polyurethane foam or by means of the so-called PSUL tape (pre-compressed sealing tape).

How to make an extension to a brick house photo

Another thing is the joining of a brick or block building with a similar house. Here, things are a little more complicated, and you cannot do without special embedded parts or bundles. It is possible to ensure a reliable connection of walls without bandaging the blocks only by driving iron embedded parts every 4-5 rows of blocks. Holes are drilled in the wall of the existing building (two, one on each side of the block at a distance of 3 cm from the edge) - reinforcement is hammered into them, which should protrude from the wall of the house by at least 30 cm. When a new block is laid on it, the cement will reliably connect the two walls into a single whole product. Alternatively, again, you can make potholes with a puncher, which, together with reinforcement, will provide a reliable bunch of two block walls with each other.

How to make an extension to a wooden house photo

And in conclusion, the topic of how to make an extension to a house, a few words about the bundle of walls with a block or brick extension. Such a combination of structures is also common, and it will not be superfluous to know how they are connected. In fact, you will have to make a metal girth for the blocks - it is attached to the wall wooden house by means of powerful self-tapping screws and is a kind of channel, inside which a block or brick wall enters exactly. By and large, this is the same option that is used to connect a wooden extension to a brick house, only exactly the opposite.

Construction wooden houses has not lost its popularity even with the introduction, and an extension to a wooden house only complements it and emphasizes individuality. Quite often, over time, it is required to increase the living area of the house or make a veranda near it. In such cases, an extension is erected, which can also be from a variety of building materials.

It differs not only in its strength, but also in its durability, environmental friendliness, and has excellent technical characteristics. Construction is made from wood that has undergone preliminary processing: drying and processing with special insect repellents.

An extension to a wooden house can be as:

rooms,

There are various options for outbuildings, which differ greatly in construction technology.

Summer kitchen attached to the side of a wooden house

Frame extension

The simplest and most common way to build an extension is a frame structure. This construction technology came to us relatively recently, but already during this time it has been able to win the recognition of most people. This is due to the fact that the construction process takes minimal time. The whole structure in its properties is not inferior to the foam block structure. The frame extension to the wooden house is distinguished by its originality. The frame can be made of wood or metal.

You can use in the construction of an extension not only a wooden, but also a metal frame. It is not affected by weather and climatic phenomena, and is also resistant to temperature extremes.

Before starting construction, it is necessary to clearly determine for what purposes such an additional structure will serve. The process of its insulation and the use of any materials will depend on this.

If the frame extension will be used as a room, then the insulation in it can be:

mineral wool,
polyurethane foam,
Styrofoam,
expanded polystyrene and more.

For the manufacture of a metal frame, channels, pipes and fittings of various diameters and sizes are used. There is load-bearing beams, which are larger in diameter, and there are auxiliary ones, which may be smaller in diameter. All elements of the metal structure are fastened together by means of welding: electric arc welding or semiautomatic device.

Wooden frame of an extension to the house

The wooden frame differs from the metal one in its lightness. It is also strong and durable. You can also emphasize its environmental friendliness. Wood is considered a warm material, but, despite this, the wooden frame must also be insulated with similar heaters and insulating materials.

Both the wood and metal frame must be bonded to the wood wall. Difficulties in fastening can arise only if the house is built of rounded timber, since its walls are uneven.

To fix the frame to the wall, the reinforcement is pre-mounted in the wall, on metal "blunders", fixed inside the house. All gaps between the frame and the structure must be sealed with plaster or polyurethane foam.

The walls of this design can be sheathed with any modern finishing material. As a rule, plastic or siding is used as a facade finish for a frame extension. But for a structure made of wood, it will be more rational to use a wooden lining. It has an attractive appearance and sufficient strength.

Before mounting a wooden lining, it must first be covered with several layers of varnish. Such actions can significantly extend the life of such a finishing material and help protect the facade from insects and the effects of weather.

Wooden lining can be of different sizes, which is convenient for choosing the best option. If you use siding or plastic, then it is necessary to attach sheets of plywood or OSB to the frame. Their use makes the structure more durable and heat-absorbing.

An annex, finished in the same way as the main house

If in a conventional finish, siding or plastic in mandatory must be mounted on a special frame made of small wooden blocks, then when frame construction these finishing materials are mounted directly on the surface of OSB or plywood using special self-tapping screws.

With regard to internal finishing works, then they are made according to the principle of external decoration. On the insulation, which was previously laid, sheets of OSB or plywood are laid. Inside the building, you can also use drywall, which is distinguished by its practicality and ease of use. It is plastered and then painted.

Porch extension

The porch extension also belongs to the frame extension, since basically such a structure is made on the basis of a wooden frame. The porch has no walls, but a concrete base. It can be made during the construction of the house itself, or it can be poured over time.

In the latter version, it will be better to make a small foundation under the porch, which should be connected with reinforced concrete to the base for the house.

This is necessary in order to ensure the strength of the structure with its additional extensions, since the soil on the sites can be different, and, depending on weather conditions, it tends to sink, which will entail possible deformation.

The porch is made of both metal and wood. It all depends on financial capabilities. The construction of an extension with walls will be similar to the frame structure, only insulation and insulating materials can not be used.

A porch made of metal with railings will look very original, since these kind of fences can be made with elements of artistic forging. The roof of this design is usually made of polycarbonate. Translucent material harmoniously complement the extension to the wooden house.

Metal porch roof made of polycarbonate

Advice. Polycarbonate has different thicknesses - those types of this roofing material with a thickness of at least 0.7 mm have greater strength and durability.

Annex room

As soon as in a private house there is no longer enough useful space for each family member, they immediately begin to think that an extension of the room is simply necessary. This is already a residential extension, and its construction will need to be approached responsibly.

The extension of the room can be made of brick, foam block, wood, cinder block.

The use of any of the materials implies the construction of a base for them. The difference in building materials (the main structure is made of wood, and the extension is made of any other material) can play a large role in the strength and reliability of the house as a whole.

A brick extension to a wooden house is built on a monolithic or strip foundation. It has high strength and durability. The brick itself is considered a cold material, but with proper and high-quality insulation, it can maintain a constant temperature regime in the room.

When choosing the type of foundation for an extension, you need to build on the main foundation. Any foundation is laid under a wooden house, depending on the groundwater, since wood is light building material... But more often it is used pile foundation... Under brick walls it is better not to use this type of foundation, since the weight of the entire structure will be quite large.

It is for this reason that it is better to give preference to a monolithic foundation, which in its structure is considered an integral structure, and can withstand various loads on it.

To build a monolithic foundation for a brick extension, a trench is preliminarily dug, the depth of which largely depends on the size of the extension itself. As a rule, it is at least 0.5-0.7 m.

Layers of sand and crushed stone are laid at the bottom of the trench, a cushion is formed for greater strength and durability of the base. It is better to mix the concrete solution in a concrete mixer so that it is freshly prepared, since concrete has the property of hardening very quickly, and making the base a monolith simply will not work.

Project of a brick extension to a wooden house

Preliminary formwork is made along the perimeter of the trench. It can be non-removable, that is, after manufacturing, its elements are not removed.

The solution for such a foundation consists of:

cement grade 400 or 500;
sand, preferably river and without impurities;
crushed stone is not too large, granite can be used (it does not undergo deformation and can withstand sufficient loads);
water;
fittings.

A metal frame in the form of a mesh is made from reinforcement. It is placed in a trench on sand and gravel. After that, cement, sand, crushed stone and water are mixed. All proportions that are necessary for a high-quality foundation must be strictly observed, since the strength of the entire structure will depend on this.

The concrete solution is poured into the trench in parts, while it is necessary to ensure that none of such parts begins to harden. Otherwise, the foundation will no longer be a monolith and will lose its strength.

This article is intended to help you understand the whole variety of materials for decorating a veranda in a private house. Photos of how to sheathe and how to paint are also included. The article specifies the features of use finishing materials in conditions of open and closed verandas. Materials such as wall paneling, decorative plaster, PVC panels, polycarbonate, etc. will appear. So, if you are interested in the question of how to sheathe the veranda, then you will get the answers from the article.

Terrace design in country house in a modern style (photo)

Finishing a veranda in a private house - photos of finishing materials and their purpose

Having dealt with the question, it is necessary to proceed directly to its decoration. When choosing, you should rely, first of all, on the practicality of the finish and its appearance... It is worth considering and deciding whether the veranda will be used for walking, as they say, “on bare feet,” or if they will walk on it in shoes.

In any case, the number of different materials for decoration allows you to develop your imagination to the fullest and show your creative power. Before buying finishes, it is a good option to create a layout for the future design, which will help to avoid:

problems with the combination of colors and materials;
overexpenditure or lack of finishing.

In addition, the design project allows you to think through more details and choose the best combination for finishing a veranda in a private house. All finishing materials can be divided into different target areas of application:

Outdoor;
Wall-mounted;
Ceiling.

Most of the materials that are used for decoration are versatile - they are suitable for both open and closed verandas, however, there are various exceptions.

Finishing the veranda in a private house - photo in the interior

Interior wall decoration

For the interior decoration of the veranda, there are many materials that allow you to achieve a pleasant appearance. Of course, you can use ordinary finishing materials, such as wallpaper, however, on the veranda, they most likely will not last long and will look obscene.

This chapter discusses the main types of materials for covering walls on the veranda:

Lining;
Decorative plaster;
PVC panels;
MDF panels.

interior of the room

All of them require a different level of skills from the master - sheathing with PVC panels is much easier than finishing the wall with plaster, however, and they give the effects corresponding to the labor costs. How to sheathe the veranda inside? - Let's start with the most popular wall paneling.

Decorating the veranda with clapboard

Warming a veranda in a wooden house

The lining for the veranda is classically a thin, usually up to 5-10mm, board made of wood, recycled materials or plastic. To connect individual boards to each other, a system with spikes and grooves is used, which allows you to quickly and reliably connect the boards to each other.

Previously, the use of lining was considered a special chic - the walls, sheathed with lining at the time Soviet Union, were a huge luxury, since it was quite problematic to get it. Now it is a generally available material that can be bought at any hardware store.

The lining on the veranda differs in the profile of its grooves and the angle of processing of the edges, which allow you to create different cosmetic effects:

standard profile, with beveled edges that create noticeable transitions between the boards;
“calm” profile, with softer transitions due to the small corner of the edges;
Euro profile, forming a pattern after collecting the cover.

Separately, American and European wall paneling is distinguished, which has its own peculiarities of use - the "American" allows you to imitate the "overlapping" laying style, and the "European" has additional ridges on the front side, covering the joints.

As a material, it is quite whimsical - when choosing a lining from solid wood species, it is necessary to take into account the drying out that will occur after the lining is fixed on the wall. MDF lining does not require such an attitude, however, with very high humidity in the room, over time it can absorb moisture and take on a form that is unsuitable for wall covering.

To finish the veranda with clapboard, you only need a screwdriver and clamps - special metal latches screwed to the board and allowing you to speed up the work process. The spikes on the boards are longer than the grooves, which is protection against the destruction of an even row when the board dries, so you should not try to push the spike all the way.

Decorative plaster

This type of interior decoration of a veranda in a private house (photo enlarged) is a special mixture that, when dried, creates a finished, in the case of using colored and textured plasters, or unfinished wall covering.

At the moment, there are a huge number of decorative plasters for the veranda:

Colored, with various colors in its composition;
Stone, imitating the texture and appearance of natural stone;
Venetian, creating the effect of natural marble;
Silk, also called "liquid wallpaper", containing synthetic fibers, and other types.

The appearance of the plaster coating is determined not only by the material, but also by the application technique. By using different smear techniques and experimenting with the amount of mass on the spatula, it is possible to achieve different visual effects. Masters can use it to make whole paintings - sgraffito, which are distinguished by their great strength and durability.

Of all types of plaster, only silk is not suitable for use on open verandas - the material is very sensitive to changes in temperature and moisture, which will lead to its deterioration after the first frost and high dampness after rains.

PVC panels for the veranda

Polyvinyl chloride is an extremely versatile and convenient material that is essentially plastic. The panels from it can take any shape, and the colors are limited only by the designer's imagination and the possibilities of colors.

Panels from it have:

resistance to high temperatures;
low weight;
water resistance.

Another huge plus is the cost - one sq.m. PVC panels will cost you much less than a meter of lining or MDF panels.

On sale there are both ordinary panels without special processing, and lining, with a system of pins and grooves. The process of finishing the PVC veranda is very simple - it takes place with the help of fasteners. The panels can also be screwed on with ordinary screws at low power, but this is not too beautiful and you risk easily splitting the sheet with too much force.

PVC lining is mounted in the same way as a conventional lining, using clamps and screws. She has a wide variety of profiles - it all depends on the manufacturer.

The main disadvantage of PVC products is their low frost resistance - at temperatures below -15 degrees, the panel may crack.

MDF panels

The word MDF comes from an abbreviation from the English name - Medium Density Fibreboard, which translated into Russian means medium density fiberboard. The material consists of shavings of various wood species pressed by high pressure at a temperature. It is an environmentally friendly material.

MDF panels for verandah cladding are made up to 10mm thick and have:

sound absorption;
resistance to high and low temperatures;
ease of use.

The main disadvantage of MDF is its low resistance to moisture, which is seriously reduced in the presence of open ends or uncoated chips. The board swells and, over time, breaks up into shavings.

MDF panels are made both as separate sheets and in the form of lining and other finishing products. It's easy to work with them - you can just screw them on. The material is varied - the coating has many different textures and flowers.

Having discussed the question of how to decorate the walls of the veranda inside, we go directly to the ceilings.

What to make a ceiling on the veranda

Ceiling coverings have a separate feature - the material, if possible, should be lightweight and resistant to moisture that can get onto it from the roof.

For finishing the ceiling on the veranda, we will consider the following options:

lining;
PVC panels;
polycarbonate;
wicker ceilings.

All these materials are easy to install and do not require special temperature conditions from the room, which makes them truly universal.

When making a ceiling on the veranda, you need to take into account the future location of light sources - they can add an additional zest to the room with the correct ceiling covering.

A prerequisite is the use of skirting boards - no material will give you a perfect ceiling without noticeable joints, and when creating wood flooring, you need to leave additional gaps for the expansion of the wood after drying.

Lining

The lining on the ceiling is no different from the lining on the walls. Using it on two surfaces of the veranda at once - the ceiling and walls - allows you to create a complete, noble design of the room. The direction can create a special effect - it can be run diagonally, adding a game of geometry to the room, or continuing the clapboard on the walls.

The peculiarity of the veranda cladding inside the clapboard is only the use of a lighter ceiling clapboard, up to 7mm thick, and a somewhat more complex installation with tracking the indents from the walls, which are laid for possible expansion of the wood due to the temperature increase. When decorating the ceiling and walls with clapboard, it is necessary to take into account the width of the boards. For a pleasant appearance, it is advisable to continue the joints of the walls on the ceiling, making the boards the same arrangement.

PVC panels

As a ceiling material, PVC is versatile - it can be used both on the veranda and in the house. The panels are very convenient for ceiling work - they are very lightweight.

The process of finishing a veranda in a private house (clickable photo) is simple and combines finishing and alignment - with the help of guides from metal profiles, it is possible to create a perfectly flat ceiling without wasting time. The profiles are mounted at the required length - usually 50-80mm is enough to remove even a noticeable drop, after which the wiring necessary for the lamps is thrown under them and the whole structure is sheathed with panels.

The material is rather thin and soft, therefore, if necessary, it can be easily cut with an ordinary construction knife into the desired parts. Each panel is protected with a foil, which must be removed after installation.

The variety of materials allows you not to limit the creative space, but for the ceiling it is better to take a closer look at glossy options that will visually enlarge the room.

Polycarbonate

Polycarbonate is a very nice looking material. At the moment, it is produced mainly in two forms:

monolithic plates;
with cellular division.

The advantage of this material for the ceiling is its transparency, which imitates glass, in the absence of the latter's disadvantages: fragility and great weight. It is possible to give it any color scheme. A good option is to design a polycarbonate ceiling together with a transparent roof, which can create a unique veranda in its appearance, completely filled with sunlight.

Installation of polycarbonate on the veranda is carried out by pressing it along the edges, in the case of small individual plates, or with the creation of a frame and subsequent sheathing.

You need to be especially careful when working with wires - they must be fixed in opaque areas, otherwise they will spoil the whole effect of the transparent ceiling.

Wicker ceilings for the veranda

Such a design solution will give a special “rustic”, in the good sense of the word, shade to the veranda. The only difficulty is the installation of lamps - the weaving does not always come out strong and it is rather difficult to make an even hole in it.

The Wicker Bamboo Veranda Ceiling is made of 3-4mm thin plywood or veneer. It is enough just to dissolve a large sheet into pieces of 50-150mm and intertwine them. The ends are lined with perpendicular ribbons.

For fastening, it is necessary to add several transverse strips to the ceiling, at a distance of about 1000-1500 mm, to which sections of the tape are nailed with slate nails with wide heads and thin legs. It is better to lift the weaving with the help of ropes, which are fixed on the transverse logs. They start from a narrower edge - a good braid will not fall apart from such an impact.

Difficulty can arise at the fastening stage - plywood and, especially, veneer easily cracks from strong influences, therefore it is better not to rush and hammer nails slowly.

Having analyzed the main points of the interior decoration of the veranda in a private house (clickable photo), let's move on to the final one and no less an important milestone- floor sheathing.

Veranda flooring

The floor is very important - it gives a tactile sensation when walking. The following types of veranda flooring can be considered:

Tile;
Terrace board;
Linoleum;
Rubber coating;
Concrete floor.

When choosing a floor covering, you need to start from what kind of building will be - open or closed, whether they will walk in it in shoes or barefoot. With a "clean" veranda, one should not forget about the possibility of placing carpets or other decorative coverings.

Let's go directly to the discussion of the question of what to make the floors on the veranda, let's start with the tiles.

Veranda tiles

Perhaps this is not the easiest option, but the most practical one. The tile itself:

shockproof;
easy to clean as it is resistant to water;
has many design options.

With tiles, you can lay out different geometric patterns, combining the shape of the tile itself and the pattern on it.

To place tiles on the veranda, preliminary preparation of the floor covering is required - leveling and screed. Otherwise, the tiles will “play”, creating bumps and unpleasant sensations for the feet.

To work with tiles, tile adhesive is required, which is applied to the back surface. Between each other, the individual parts must be leveled, and special crosses are laid between the corners, leveling the seams in size. The joints are masked with a special grout, which stays in the joints and is easily erased from the surface.

The main difficulty can be cutting to non-standard sizes - it is quite difficult to make even edges without a special tile cutter, which costs quite a lot of money, however, if necessary, you can ask to cut the tiles of your comrades with this tool, or cut the tiles with a hacksaw or grinder.

Decking board for the veranda

Veranda decking board, also called decking, is specially processed lumber. It has three layers - the lower one, which is a surface with grooves for ventilation, the middle one, which has cavities for the expansion of wood, and the upper, smooth, front layer.

Benefits of veranda flooring:

Easy installation;
Durability;
Heat capacity.

The appearance depends on the coating and the material used, of which there are a huge number of combinations. If you plan to use it in open areas, then it is better to give preference to varnished or impregnated against dampness.

For the floor on an open veranda, it is required to create a frame and pass the lag. Lags are placed perpendicular to the direction every 400-600mm. After that, the board is simply nailed or screwed down. It is necessary to work with this material very carefully - a blow past the nail can ruin the appearance of the coating.

Linoleum

Studying the question of how to cover the floor on the veranda of a private house, let's pay attention to linoleum. It is made from a combination of PVC and polymers to give superior flooring properties. Linoleum:

waterproof when installed in one piece;
shockproof;
very easy to use;
cheap.

There are a huge number of types of linoleum and it is quite simple to choose it for the design. There are those that imitate parquet or stone, and quite naturally, and you can distinguish them only upon detailed examination.

Finishing the veranda in a private house - photo of linoleum on the floor

For installation, it is enough to have a relatively flat floor surface for a veranda outdoors or indoors. The roll is simply rolled out, leveled and attached at the edges with a plinth. If necessary, it can be cut into separate sections and fastened with a special bar. This is useful when there are narrow passages where a solid piece cannot be inserted.

For an insulated floor, it is possible to use a polyvinyl chloride lining, which is quite cheap and allows you to eliminate some surface imperfections under the linoleum, creating a heat-retaining lining.

Rubber coating

The rubber covering for the veranda is essentially rubber. The floor covering from it is represented by individual tiles or monolithic pieces that have unique properties:

huge impact resistance;
waterproof;
resistance to temperature changes.

The rubber floor on the veranda of the summer cottage gives you the opportunity to create a wide variety of designs with great strength and durability. A prepared flat surface is required to work with it. When installing the cover with individual modular tiles, no special tools are needed - with a small floor area, they simply stick together and are reinforced at the edges with a plinth.

Regular tiles require polymer glue to hold them in place. Installation is similar to ordinary ceramic tiles, however, the joints can be made close to each other without aligning them with crosses.

Rolled linoleum resembles ordinary linoleum with a smaller roll width. The joints between it are welded with a special soldering iron or a construction hairdryer with a thin nozzle, or they are glued with polymer glue.

Concrete floor

The concrete floor for the veranda is the simplest and at the same time the most difficult option for covering. For it, you just need to have a pre-made monolithic foundation, or cover the floors with concrete slabs.

Such coverage:

shockproof;
waterproof;
not sensitive to temperature changes;
does not require careful maintenance.

Of course, it is not enough just to put a concrete slab on the floor - you need to polish it. To do this, you need to stock up on a polishing machine, abrasive diamond belts or discs and a lot of patience.

The polishing process begins with the use of the largest grain by the tape (they are marked by the number of grains per square centimeter - 40, 80, 160, 320, and so on) and walk it over the entire surface. After that, a tape of less abrasiveness is taken and everything is done again until the surface reaches a uniform shine.

Having dealt with the question of how and how to cover the floor on the veranda, let's move on to painting it.

How to paint the floor on the veranda in the country with your own hands

Painting your veranda is a great way to protect your floor finish. The paint protects the floor from damage and corrosion. Various materials lend themselves to painting:

wood - boards, MDF, decking;
concrete.

How to paint the floor on the veranda in the country, except not with acrylic paint

For painting the wooden floor of an open veranda, acrylic, alkyd, nitro-enamel and oil paints are most optimal. For good woods, you can also use wood stain or varnish. Before painting the veranda board, the floor must be cleaned from the remnants of the previous paint, if any, and sanded.

When painting, you need to dip a brush or roller from excess - otherwise, accumulations of paint will form in the recesses, which will spoil the appearance. It is better to polish the varnish after painting, otherwise it will be too slippery for walking.

Concrete floors are best painted with epoxy, acrylic or polyurethane enamel. Epoxy paint is not completely painted - it is rather “rolled” on the floor with a special spatula to an even layer. It does not wear off over time and gives a very bright color.

How to paint the floor on the veranda in the country? Choose acrylic paint and polyurethane enamel. They are applied with a regular brush or roller. Before painting, it is better to clean the surface from dust and prime it, which will ensure a better adhesion of the paint.

Rating of finishing materials for the veranda

To make it easier for you to make your choice, we have compiled for you a small table of the most convenient and popular finishing materials.

A place	Material	Appointment	Justification
1	Lining	Ceiling and walls	Environmentally friendly material, does not require special skills from the master. Allows you to create design solutions that will always look natural. Can be renewed - sanded and re-varnished or stained.
2	PVC panels	Ceiling and walls	Cheap and available material, easy to work with. It is lightweight. On sale you can find a large number of textures and colors. However, it rarely looks natural and is not very durable.
3	Linoleum	Floor	Easy to use and practical at low cost. Large assortment with various colors and textures. It imitates parquet and natural stone very well. The downside is the limited area of use - it looks good only on the floor.
4	Network	Ceiling	Looks extremely impressive. The variety of plywood allows you to create different design solutions. Needs accurate installation, difficult to work with. Placed only on the ceiling due to its fragility.
5	Terrace board	Floor	The deck is easy to use and allows you to create a natural wooden floor. The material is extremely durable due to ventilation and is immediately prepared for placement. However, it costs decent money and is not very convenient for working in the house.

Veranda and gazebo is a stylish and functional decoration suburban area.
But, if the gazebo is a free-standing structure that can be used in the summer, then the veranda is a room attached to the house, which has a roof, walls and is intended for year-round use.

A warm veranda can serve as a corridor, hallway or recreation room, greenhouse, winter garden, even a pool can be placed in it

What is the difference between a veranda and a terrace? These concepts are often confused, although they are structurally and visually distinct. The presence of a roof and walls is what distinguishes the veranda from the terrace and porch.

The veranda is envisaged even at the stage of building a house, but more often it is completed already during operation. Therefore, many are interested in how to attach a veranda to the house with their own hands. Below is a step-by-step (step-by-step) instruction for building a veranda for a private house.

1. Veranda project

Any construction begins with the development of a project.

Summarizing the experience of building verandas, it can be noted that they differ in the following parameters:

Location (adjacent to the house):

Corner.
End.
Facade.

Closure degree:

Open.
Closed (glazed.

By installing sliding doors for the veranda, you can transform a closed veranda into an open one.

Design feature:

Built-in veranda (built together with the house, has a common foundation with it).
Attached (attached as needed, has its own foundation).

Veranda shape:

A popular shape is the rectangle.
Round (semicircular.
Polygonal (hexagonal, octagonal).

The main purpose of the veranda is to make the house or cottage more spacious and to decorate the building. The veranda extension also performs a purely utilitarian function - house insulation. Therefore, the question naturally arises of how to attach the veranda to the house correctly. Despite the fact that the veranda is a summer construction, its construction provides for the implementation of a number of rules.

What is included in the veranda construction project:

location of the veranda. The main options are indicated above. It is important that the extension is a continuation of the house, representing with it a single architectural ensemble.

Note. It is better to place the veranda on the east or west side, then it will be out of direct sunlight most of the time. Also, it is worth considering the wind load in the region and on the site, in particular.

entry point to the veranda. The entrance can be arranged from the street, from one of the rooms, or be through, through the street into the house;

place of installation of the door. It is undesirable to place the entrance doors to the veranda and to the house against each other, otherwise drafts cannot be avoided;

the size of the veranda in the house. The length of the veranda is usually equal to the length of the wall along which it is erected. The width ranges from 2.5 to 7 m. It is important here that the size of the veranda is proportional to the size of the house.

Advice from the master. There is no need to save on the project. Its high-quality performance is a guarantee that the veranda will be built correctly, and the registration of permits will not cause problems.

An example of a typical veranda project is shown in the diagram

How to attach a veranda to a wooden house

Any extension to a wooden house is performed after the structure has shrunk. A house made of timber or logs shrinks for a certain period (the most active is the first 2-3 years). To avoid skewing the walls, you need to wait this period, or think over a connection with the house, allowing the frame to play.

2. Documents for the construction of a veranda (permit)

The veranda extension refers to the remodeling of the house. Therefore, it needs permission documentation.

To obtain a permit for the construction of a veranda (for an extension, reconstruction), you need to submit to the architecture department:

a document confirming the right to own the site;
project of a house with a veranda;
the consent of all residents registered in the house;
application for registration.

Note. You need to start the paperwork 2-3 months before the planned construction works... According to user reviews, this procedure takes quite a long time.

In principle, it is possible to finish building a veranda without documents, however, when selling, renting or inheriting this property, problems may arise with this property. Veranda enters total area residential building, BTI can regard this as "Unauthorized increase in living space." Especially if the veranda is heated (warm veranda).

When building a veranda, you should not deviate from the dimensions indicated in the registered project. Any adjustment will entail a change in project documentation and payment of the fine. The consequences of unauthorized construction are spelled out in the Law of the Russian Federation "On architectural activities in the Russian Federation" and civil code, an excerpt from which is given below.

The consequences for unauthorized construction are listed below.

The last thing that needs to be done after the construction of the veranda is to legalize the building with the changes and obtain new documents.

3. Tools and materials for the construction of a veranda

The tool depends on what material will be used in the construction of the extension. For a wooden one you need: a hacksaw, a screwdriver, a hammer and an ax, a sledgehammer, a tape measure, a plumb line, a level (construction and water), a corner, a cord for marking, a shovel. For a metal frame, you will additionally need a grinder and a welding machine.

Material

Economy (budget) version of the veranda is a metal frame sheathed with plywood, OSB (OSB) or plastic clapboard.

A veranda made of brick, natural stone or wood has a more presentable appearance. It is important here that the material of the extension corresponds to the material from which the house, dacha is built, or is in harmony (combined) with them.

For the construction of a wooden veranda, you will need: lumber (log or timber, board, rail), fasteners (elements), protective solutions for wood, crushed stone, concrete, bitumen, drying oil or roofing felt, window and door systems, roofing material.

For a veranda with a metal frame: lumber will be replaced by metal corners and a steel profile, solutions for metal processing will be added, and the rest of the materials will be the same.

The polycarbonate veranda has proven itself well in that it allows you to freely admire the surrounding landscape. In addition, polycarbonate retains heat well, transmits light, and can be used for both walls and roofs. Plus, the cost of the material is quite adequate. Used cellular polycarbonate with a wall thickness of 14-18 mm.

Note. All materials requiring processing must be processed before starting work. After the veranda is built, processing will be more difficult.

Preparation for construction

The construction of the veranda begins with the preparation of the site. Part of the plot, set aside for the veranda, turns into a construction site. Before starting work you need:

remove the visor above the entrance;
dismantle the porch;
to clear the area from green spaces and debris;
remove part of the turf;
think over the place of laying building materials and construction waste.

4. The foundation for the veranda to the house

Before you start pouring the foundation, you need to determine its appearance. The most widespread was columnar foundation for the veranda, since it makes it possible to attach a veranda without being tied to the main foundation of the house. However, a heavier veranda needs a strip foundation.

An important point is the analysis of the soil, which makes it possible to reasonably choose the foundation for the veranda to the house. The following factors are taken into account: the ability of the soil to absorb moisture, the homogeneity and composition of the soil, the level of freezing, the height of the groundwater, the stability of the soil.

In addition, the choice of the basis for the extension will be influenced by the construction of the foundation of the house and the condition of the walls (wall material).

Having decided what foundation for the veranda is better to make, they make markings for the strip or indicate the place of installation of the pillars (supports) under the pile.

Note. For a small wooden veranda, it is enough to install pillars at the corners of the structure. For long and wide, provide additional posts along the length / width of the base. The recommended installation pitch of the supports is 500-600 mm.

How to make a columnar foundation for a veranda

dig holes for posts about 1 m deep. It is important to know that the depth of the foundation for the veranda depends on the depth of the foundation of the house (should be the same) and the level of soil freezing;

at the bottom of the pit, a pillow is made from a mixture of rubble and sand. They can be covered with layers, first sand, then crushed stone or gravel;

a concrete base is poured;

the support pillars for the columnar foundation are laid out / inserted:

Made of bricks. If you need to add a veranda to a brick house;

From a bar. For a wooden veranda;

From asbestos pipes, concrete poles or metal supports. For a frame veranda.

The ground part of the pillars is brought up to the height of the main foundation of the house. If the basement is high, you need to bring the extension to the level of the house.

An example in the photo (the first floor is used as a garage, the veranda is at the level of the second floor).

The installation site is covered with sand to eliminate and strengthen the gap between the post and the soil.

The construction of a veranda with a large mass requires pouring a strip foundation. To do this, you need to dig a trench, set up the formwork (just above the required foundation height), pour concrete. The process of complete hardening of concrete must be accompanied by periodic wetting with water for uniform hardening of the concrete mixture.

5. Veranda frame

The installation of the frame begins with the implementation of the lower strapping. For this, a beam is laid on the supports.

Note. The bottom rail can be double system. It is on it that the racks and floor joists will be attached in the future.

Next, the supports are installed, which form the frame of the veranda to the house. The frame of a wooden veranda is made of 120x80 or 100x100 timber. When using logs, their diameter should be greater than 120 mm. It is recommended to install the supports at a distance of 500-600 mm, but in practice this is rare. However, the supports must be installed in the corners and form the door / window openings.

The height of the supports is equal to the height of the veranda. In this case, the supports installed closer to the wall must be higher in order to form a pitched roof. The methods for attaching the racks to the lower harness are shown in the figure.

Advice. The stiffness of the supports will be given by the jibs (braces) installed above and below.

When installing the frame, horizontal beams are installed, which will serve as the basis for installing the window sill when glazing.

The installation of the veranda frame ends with the implementation of the upper strapping. It will serve as the basis for the formation of the rafter system, and will give the frame additional rigidity.

Note. To prevent the upper harness from skewing, the supports must be secured with temporary struts.

Many are interested in how to make a frame of a veranda from a log house. Indeed, in this case, both the foundations of the buildings and the frame itself are moving. Therefore, all connections must be able to move (displace). Shrinkage compensators are installed from below, and from above the roof is firmly attached to the rafters of the log house.

6. Veranda roof

Part of the frame is the veranda rafter system. The installation of rafters and lathing depends on what kind of roofing material the veranda roof will be covered with.

From the point of view of construction, the following types of roofs for the veranda are distinguished:

Shed roof of the veranda.

The easiest and best option. In this case, the rafter system is mounted at an angle from the wall of the house, which makes it possible for rainwater or snow to flow down unhindered without damaging the building.

Note. A pitched roof is more convenient from the point of view of the organization of drainage and, accordingly, the device of the drainage system.

The gable roof of the veranda.

In this case, the narrow part of the veranda is attached to the house. It becomes, as it were, a checkpoint. This method has not found proper distribution. More often, such a roof is erected over the terrace.

The polygonal roof for the veranda is built in such a way that the angle of inclination for the drainage of water is maintained.

Installation of the veranda rafter system

A girder board is installed on the wall of the house (timber 100x80 mm). The bar is fastened with anchor bolts. The upper parts of the rafter legs are mounted on it.

A Mauerlat is installed along the perimeter of the frame. In small wooden outbuildings this function is performed by the boards of the upper strapping. The lower parts of the rafter legs are installed on them.

The lower part of the rafters is mounted so that it is possible to provide an overhang (removal) of the roofing material, which means that the veranda is protected from the ingress of flowing water.

Note. The distance between the rafter legs depends on the slope of the roof, the width of the veranda, and the weight of the roofing material.

When installing the roofing system of a polygonal veranda, a girder board is additionally installed.

Depending on the material chosen, the crate is stuffed (for metal tiles, ondulin, slate) or a continuous crate is made (for flexible roofing materials).

How to attach a veranda to the house - video instruction

7. The floor on the veranda

The order of construction, materials, methods of fastening and processing.

DIY flooring technology:

Logs are installed on the boards of the lower strapping. The distance between adjacent logs should be no more than 1 m. The logs are installed perpendicular to how the floorboard will be laid.

Fastening the lag to the harness - important point, the quality of its implementation determines the operational characteristics of the floor. The lag setting is level controlled.

What to make floors on an open veranda

The concrete floor on the veranda is cheaper, plus, it is durable and requires subsequent finishing. For example, you can lay tiles or linoleum. The wooden floor on the veranda, even painted, will deform over time. It is also recommended to use a plastic skirting board with wood-like decor.

How to cover the floors on a closed veranda

The floor of the closed veranda is laid. In this case, installation begins with the board farthest from the entrance. It attaches to the joists directly through the board.

Subsequent boards are mounted using the thorn-groove method, and the hardware is fastened through the groove.

How to attach a floorboard to a veranda

It is recommended to fasten the floor boards with self-tapping screws. Their length should be twice the width of the board. The distance from the edge of the floorboard to the wall is 10-15 mm. Such a gap will allow to compensate for the expansion of the timber during the hot season.

How to cover the floor on the veranda (open, closed)

The flooring of the veranda made of wood is one of the most popular and easiest to install. Therefore, the actual question is how to treat the floor on the veranda in order to extend the service life and preserve the aesthetic properties.

Floorboards will last longer if they are additionally coated with solutions that prevent the appearance of fungus. As a finishing floor covering - apply a decorative layer of paint or stain, opened on top with varnish.

A novelty among paintwork materials is Dufa paint "Liquid Plastic", intended for use outdoors (well suited for an open veranda).

From transparent coatings, the respect of users has earned:

Tikkurila Valtti (wood oil);
Pinotex Terrace Oil;
Alpina Oel Terrassen Dunkel;
Watco Danish Oil .;
as well as epoxy varnishes (yacht varnishes), which are intended for use in humid environments.

the product must be intended for wood;

be resistant to abrasion;

be resistant to environmental factors (water, temperature, ultraviolet light).

It is worth noting that veranda floor coverings are quite expensive, but this is justified by the service life, without re-finishing and high aesthetic properties.

8. Roofing material for the veranda

As a roofing material, it is better to use such material for the roof of the veranda, which is installed on the main structure (house or summer cottage). Well-proven shingles,. They are mounted in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations.

Note. To prevent water from flowing into the veranda in the place where the roof of the extension adjoins the wall of the house, a joint strip must be laid over the roofing material.

Correct installation of the joint strip provides for the manufacture of a saw in the wall of the house into the institution of the narrow edge of the strip.

You can admire the surrounding beauty in the warmth of the veranda by installing transparent roofs for the veranda. In this case, glass or cellular polycarbonate plays the role of roofing material.

Telescopic awning roofs or sliding veranda roofs are considered new.

). Installation of finishing materials depends on their type.

It is important to know that the wall of the veranda adjacent to the house is fixed with mortgages. metal elements(details). The mount must be rigid.

Today, veranda wall cladding with sliding systems is popular, the upper half of which is glass, and the lower half is wooden.

Note. Before moving on to the exterior and interior decoration of the walls of the veranda, you need to give it time to settle. This is especially true of the veranda made of wood.

10. Glazing of the veranda

Windows occupy a significant part of the area of the veranda walls. Due to the fact that the veranda is a summer building, single wooden windows, most often plastic or wooden. They use aluminum windows with multi-chamber double-glazed windows.

The large veranda is equipped with both opening and blind windows. The first ones allow you to provide ventilation of the room, the second ones - to save on glazing. Sliding windows deserve attention, allowing you to turn the veranda into an open terrace.

Among the novelties, flexible windows for the veranda stand out. They allow you to extend the operating period of the summer terrace. The advantage of windows is their relatively low cost, the ability to quickly assemble and disassemble for the winter. They make the high veranda safe for children to play without compromising its attractiveness.

Soft windows for the veranda - roll systems (PVC curtains), which allow you to glaze a veranda of any configuration (round, semicircular, oval).

Installation of soft windows - video

Quite often it happens that the construction of a private house was carried out without the construction of outbuildings, but then the need for them arose. Modern house projects often assume only the utilitarian function of the house - they will live there. And what, that a person will also lead some economic activity- No. In addition, sometimes there is an urgent need to increase the living area of the house. An extension made of foam blocks, a brick extension, a wooden one - the creation of these structures will help to solve this issue once and for all.

Types of extensions

The type of buildings is determined depending on what exactly should be in it. It can be a room, toilet, garage, kitchen, or whatever. By the way, in central Russia you can often find a structure in the form of a greenhouse, where you can grow fruits and vegetables even in winter.

Scheme of the device of the garage extension

Indeed, in this case, all the necessary engineering communications can be easily extended from the house. Of course, the construction of the building must be agreed upon, even if we are talking about wooden terraces or a veranda is simply attached to the house.

Project creation and selection of an extension location

Projects and construction of such structures involve the following stages:

As for the choice of materials, it is better to be guided here. following rule: it is necessary to create projects and build an extension from the materials that make up the house itself.

Device frame house in the context

For example, if it is necessary to attach terraces to a wooden house, then it is better to let it be wooden. Of course, this rule is far from always being observed.

Let's say a person wants to breed chickens, he needs a high-quality, windproof, warm brick extension. In this case, this option should be preferred, despite the fact that the house is wooden.

Options for the location of annexes to a standard wooden house

Estimate calculation

Actually, the estimate itself is not so difficult to draw up, it is necessary to take into account the following:

An example of a veranda attached to a wooden house

An estimate for construction must be drawn up immediately after the projects are ready, regardless of whether the terraces will be attached or just wooden household blocks. This will avoid unpleasant surprises in the future.

Erection of the foundation and connection of the foundation

Baths are often attached to wooden houses in Russia.

Even the construction of an ordinary terrace for a wooden house presupposes the creation of a new foundation for it. The option with lengthening the old foundation disappears right away: it is impossible to do this, but to connect both foundations into a single whole later is not only possible, but also necessary.

For example, even for wooden terraces, you will need to make exactly the same foundation as for the main house. So, first you need to decide on the type of the foundation itself.

General scheme devices for the gable of a frame house

Actually, there are 3 options for the foundation that can be used as a base for an extension:

Monolithic;
Columnar;
Tape.

The columnar foundation is used extremely rarely in Russia, since it can only be installed on very hard soils such as mountain ones.

It can be used, for example, for the construction of a gazebo, however, such structures are usually not attached to the house, but placed next to it. By the way, for a gazebo, instead of a foundation, you can take old tires - this will be quite enough.

Layout of masonry extension from foam blocks

A monolithic foundation will be the most durable, however, its installation is not always advisable.

Monolithic - the most solid foundation, as they say, "for centuries." However, the cost of its construction, as you might guess, will result in a tidy sum, and the labor costs will be very, very impressive. In general, it is better to choose the classic strip foundation, which is ideal for any extension to a wooden house.

Placement of communications

An example of an extension of a garage to a wooden house

As noted above, placing any communications in the extension is as easy as shelling pears, because the room will adjoin directly to the house itself. What does this mean?

For example, it is enough just to lengthen the existing water supply, sewage or heating system - that's it, no foundation pits and exhausting welding work. The same applies to the laying of electrical wiring, which, probably, even the most careless worker can carry out with the help of a puncher.

It's another matter when it comes to really difficult engineering systems... Let's say you need to run a branch from the main gas pipeline to the extension. First, no one will let you do it yourself.

Arrangement of a veranda attached to the house

Secondly, it will require, without exaggeration, colossal spending. So it’s worth considering. For example, in the Kuban, you can often find kitchen extensions to wooden houses.

And even if gas is supplied in the house itself, then in the extension there will still be a gas cylinder or the same electric stove (a stove is also a common option). Such nuances must be taken into account.

Communication with other premises

The question of how to make an extension to the house, even if we are talking about such a type of work as an extension of a veranda or another extension from a bar, should also imply a solution to the problem of communication between the annexed structure and the rest of the house.

This problem has 2 solutions:

A covered terrace is a great option for an extension

An extension to a house made of timber can communicate with the house using a doorway made in the main wall of the house;
The entrance can be carried out from the side of the street (an extension to the house from a bar makes it easy to implement both options, but another material made of wood does not).

In the first case, the solution will be convenient, because, in fact, it increases living space the whole house. But there is one extremely important nuance: the approval process in this case can take many months, because you need to make changes to many documents.

And the load-bearing wall of the house can be seriously damaged. If the owner of the house is ready for such a development of events, then, of course, it is better for him to prefer this particular option, and not any other.

Carry out cutting of the opening in load-bearing wall should be done with utmost caution!

If there is not enough money and there is no desire to go through the bureaucratic circles of hell, then the option with the entrance from the courtyard will not be so bad. Moreover, in terms of cost, it will come out much cheaper.

Video

You can watch a video on how to make a frame extension to a wooden house.

Overhead power line installation list

Filling in interim reporting in the FSS - sample

Build an annex to a wooden house. Extension to a wooden house: modern projects. Requirements for premises